Thursday, March 15, 2012

How to replace Cylinder Head on Ford Lincoln & Mercury?


The procedure is similar for both Ford, Lincoln and Mercury car models:----

The details to replace Cylinder head is as follows: ----

Cylinder Head
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.3L Engine
Specific to:
Ford Fusion 2008-2009
Mercury Milan 2008-2009

WARNING
Do not loosen or remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without first installing the special tools as instructed in this procedure. The crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing sprocket are not keyed to the crankshaft. The crankshaft, the crankshaft sprocket and the pulley are fitted together by friction, using diamond washers between the flange faces on each part. For that reason, the crankshaft sprocket is also unfastened if you loosen the pulley bolt. Before any repair requiring loosening or removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt, the crankshaft and camshafts must be locked in place by the special service tools, otherwise severe engine damage can occur.


WARNING
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan can cause engine failure.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Release the fuel system pressure, as outlined in the Fuel Section.
  3. Check the valve clearance.
  4. Remove the degas bottle.
  5. Remove the catalytic converter.
  6. Remove the generator.
  7. Remove the fuel supply rail.
  8. Remove the intake manifold.
  9. On Vehicles with secondary air injection (AIR):
    1. Disconnect the secondary air injection (AIR) pump electrical connector.
    2. Remove the 3 bolts and position the AIR pump aside.
  10. Remove the bolt and the radio frequency interference capacitor from the engine mount bracket.
  11. Remove the engine mount bracket bolt.
  12. Install the special tool (303-050) and a suitable length of chain to the threaded hole in the LH side of the engine block.
  13. Install the special tools 313-F072 and 303-050, or equivalent, then using the special tool, lift the engine 25 mm (0.98 in).
  14. Remove the nut, 2 bolts and the engine mount.
  15. Lower the engine 25 mm (0.98 in).
  16. Remove the 2 nuts and the engine mount bracket.
  17. Remove the timing drive components.
  18. Remove the special tool.
  19. Mark the position of the camshaft lobes on the No. 1 cylinder for installation reference.
  20. Remove the bolt and the variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid.
    WARNING
    Failure to follow the camshaft loosening procedure can result in damage to the camshafts.
  21. Remove the camshafts from the engine.
  22. Loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts, in the sequence shown, one turn at a time until all tension is released from the camshaft bearing caps.
  23. Remove the bolts and the camshaft bearing caps.
  24. Remove the camshafts.
    WARNING
    If the camshafts and valve tappets are to be reused, mark the location of the valve tappets to make sure they are assembled in their original positions.


    NOTE
    The number on the valve tappets only reflects the digits that follow the decimal. For example, a tappet with the number 0.650 has the thickness of 3.650 mm.



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Camshaft bearing bolt loosening sequence-2.3L engine
  25. Remove and inspect the valve tappets.
  26. Detach the retaining clip and position the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) tube bundle aside.
  27. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, coolant bypass hose, heater hose and coolant vent hose from the engine coolant outlet.
  28. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT) electrical connector.
  29. Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve electrical connector.
  30. Disconnect the coolant hose from the EGR valve.
  31. On Vehicles with secondary air injection (AIR):
    1. Remove the 2 bolts and position AIR valve bracket aside.
  32. Remove the 10 bolts and the cylinder head. Discard the bolts.
To install:

WARNING
Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the head gasket.


WARNING
Observe all warnings or cautions and follow all application directions contained on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep.


NOTE
If there is no residual gasket material present, metal surface prep can be used to clean and prepare the surfaces.

  1. Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surface of both the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
  2. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
  3. Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
  4. Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
  5. Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any traces of oil or coolant, and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
  6. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes in the cylinder block. Make sure all coolant, oil or other foreign material is removed.
  7. Inspect the cylinder head for distortion.
  8. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the locations shown.

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the locations shown
  9. Install a new head gasket.
    NOTE
    The cylinder head bolts are torque-to-yield and must not be reused. New cylinder head bolts must be installed.


    NOTE
    Lubricate the bolts with clean engine oil prior to installation.

    1. Install 10 new cylinder head bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 5 stages:
    2. Step 1: Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
    3. Step 2: Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
    4. Step 3: Tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    5. Step 4: Turn 90 degrees.
    6. Step 5: Turn an additional 90 degrees.

      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-2.3L engine
  10. On Vehicles with secondary air injection (AIR):
    1. Position AIR valve bracket and install the 2 bolts.
    2. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  11. Connect the coolant hose to the EGR valve.
  12. Connect the EGR valve electrical connector.
  13. Connect the ECT electrical connector.
  14. Connect the upper radiator hose, coolant bypass hose, heater hose and coolant vent hose to the engine coolant outlet.
  15. Attach the EVAP tube bundle retaining clip retaining clip.
    NOTE
    Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  16. Install the valve tappets.
    WARNING
    Install the camshafts with the alignment slots in the camshafts lined up so the Camshaft Alignment Plate can be installed without rotating the camshafts. Make sure the lobes on the No. 1 cylinder are in the same position as noted in the removal procedure. Rotating the camshafts when the timing chain is removed, or installing the camshafts 180 degrees out of position can cause severe damage to the valves and pistons.


    NOTE
    Lubricate the camshaft journals and bearing caps with clean engine oil.
  17. Install the camshafts and bearing caps. Tighten the camshaft bearing caps in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
    1. Steps 1: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts until finger-tight.
    2. Steps 2: Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
    3. Steps 3: Tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).

      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt tightening sequence-2.3L engine
  18. Install the special tool 303-465, or equivalent..
  19. Install the VCT solenoid and bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  20. Install the timing drive components.
  21. Install the engine mount bracket and the 2 nuts. Tighten to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
  22. Using the special too, lift the engine 25 mm (0.98 in).
  23. Install the engine mount, nut and 2 bolts. Tighten to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  24. Lower the engine 25 mm (0.98 in).
  25. Install the engine mount bracket bolt. Tighten to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  26. Install the radio frequency interference capacitor and bolt to the engine mount bracket. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  27. On Vehicles with secondary air injection (AIR):
    1. Install the AIR pump and the 3 bolts.
    2. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    3. Connect the AIR pump electrical connector.
  28. Install the intake manifold.
  29. Install the fuel supply rail.
  30. Install the generator.
  31. Install the catalytic converter.
  32. Install the degas bottle.
  33. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system
3.0L Engine
Left Side
Specific to:
Ford Fusion 2008-2009
Mercury Milan 2008-2009

WARNING
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the LH camshafts, as outlined in this section.
  3. Remove the coolant bypass tube.
  4. Remove the 3 bolts and position the coolant pump aside.
  5. Remove the LH catalytic converter.
    WARNING
    The camshaft roller followers must be installed in their original positions.


    NOTE
    Mark the location of the roller followers, using a permanent-type marker.
  6. Remove the camshaft roller followers.
  7. Loosen the 8 bolts in the sequence shown and remove the cylinder head.
  8. Discard the bolts and the gasket.
    WARNING
    Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the head gasket.


    WARNING
    Observe all warnings or cautions and follow all application directions contained on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep.


    NOTE
    If there is no residual gasket material present, metal surface prep can be used to clean and prepare the surfaces.



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Left side cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-3.0L engine
  9. Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surface of both the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
  10. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
  11. Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
  12. Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
  13. Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any traces of oil or coolant, and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
  14. Support the cylinder head on a bench with the head gasket side up.
    NOTE
    The straightedge used must be flat within 0.0051 mm (0.0002 in) per foot of tool length. Inspect all areas of the deck face with a straightedge and feeler gauge. The cylinder head must not have depressions deeper than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) across a 38.1 mm (1.5 in) square area, or scratches more than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in).



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Exploded view of the left side cylinder head-3.0L engine
To install:
  1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes in the cylinder block. Make sure all coolant, oil or other foreign material is removed.
  2. Position a new gasket and the cylinder head on the engine.
    NOTE
    New cylinder head bolts must be installed. They are torque-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.
  3. Install the 8 bolts and tighten in 6 stages in the sequence shown.
    1. Step 1: Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    2. Step 2: Tighten 90 degrees.
    3. Step 3: Loosen one full turn.
    4. Step 4: Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    5. Step 5: Tighten 90 degrees.
    6. Step 6: Tighten 90 degrees.
      WARNING
      The camshaft roller followers must be installed in their original positions.


      NOTE
      Lubricate the camshaft roller followers with clean engine oil.



      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Left side cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine
  4. Install the camshaft roller followers.
  5. Install the LH catalytic converter.
  6. Position the coolant pump and install the bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) then rotate 90 degrees.
  7. Install the coolant bypass tube.
  8. Install the LH camshafts.
Right Side
Specific to:
Ford Fusion 2008-2009
Mercury Milan 2008-2009

WARNING
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the RH camshafts, as outlined in this section.
  3. Remove the coolant bypass tube.
  4. Remove the bolt and detach the power steering pressure (PSP) tube bracket from the back of the cylinder head.
  5. On Front wheel drive (FWD) vehicles:
    1. Remove the RH catalytic converter.
  6. On All wheel drive (AWD) vehicles:
    1. Remove the RH exhaust manifold.
  7. If equipped, remove the wiring harness retainer bolt.
    WARNING
    The camshaft roller followers must be installed in their original positions.


    NOTE
    Mark the location of the roller followers, using a permanent-type marker.
  8. Remove the camshaft roller followers.
  9. Loosen the 8 bolts in the sequence shown and remove the cylinder head.
  10. Discard the bolts and the gasket.
    WARNING
    Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the head gasket.


    WARNING
    Observe all warnings or cautions and follow all application directions contained on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep.


    NOTE
    If there is no residual gasket material present, metal surface prep can be used to clean and prepare the surfaces.



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Right side cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-3.0L engine
  11. Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surface of both the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
  12. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
  13. Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
  14. Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
  15. Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any traces of oil or coolant, and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
  16. Support the cylinder head on a bench with the head gasket side up.
    NOTE
    The straightedge used must be flat within 0.0051 mm (0.0002 in) per foot of tool length.
  17. Inspect all areas of the deck face with a straightedge and feeler gauge. The cylinder head must not have depressions deeper than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) across a 38.1 mm (1.5 in) square area, or scratches more than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in).

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Exploded view of the right side cylinder head-3.0L engine
To install:
  1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes in the cylinder block. Make sure all coolant, oil or other foreign material is removed.
  2. Position a new gasket and the cylinder head on the engine.
    NOTE
    New cylinder head bolts must be installed. They are torque-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.
  3. Install the 8 bolts and tighten in 6 stages in the sequence shown:
    1. Step 1: Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    2. Step 2: Tighten 90 degrees.
    3. Step 3: Loosen one full turn.
    4. Step 4: Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    5. Step 5: Tighten 90 degrees.
    6. Step 6: Tighten 90 degrees.
      WARNING
      The camshaft roller followers must be installed in their original positions.


      NOTE
      Lubricate the camshaft roller followers with clean engine oil.



      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Right side cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine
  4. Install the camshaft roller followers.
  5. If equipped, install the wiring harness retainer bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. On AWD vehicles, install the RH exhaust manifold.
  7. On FWD vehicles, install the RH catalytic converter.
  8. Position the PSP tube bracket onto the rear of the cylinder head and install the bolt. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  9. Install the coolant bypass tube.
  10. Install the RH camshafts
Left Side
Specific to:
Ford Edge 2008-2009
Lincoln MKX 2008-2009

WARNING
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.

  1. Remove the LH camshafts, as outlined in this section.
  2. If equipped, remove the heat shield and disconnect the block heater electrical connector.
  3. Remove the block heater wiring harness from the engine.
  4. Tag and detach the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors.
  5. Disconnect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector.
  6. Disconnect the LH CMP sensor electrical connector.
  7. Disconnect the LH Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  8. Disconnect the LH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector.
  9. Remove the wiring harness retainer bolt from the rear of the LH cylinder head.
  10. Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
  11. Remove the nut and disconnect the generator B+ cable.
  12. Disconnect the generator electrical connector.
  13. Detach the wiring harness retainer from the generator.
  14. Disconnect the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
  15. Remove the nut, 2 bolts and the A/C compressor. Position the compressor aside, but DO NOT disconnect the refrigerant lines.
  16. Remove the nut, bolt and the generator.
  17. Remove the 2 LH catalytic converter bracket bolts.
  18. Remove the 4 nuts and the LH catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and the gasket.
  19. Remove the 3 bolts and the LH exhaust manifold heat shield.
  20. Remove the 6 nuts and the LH exhaust manifold.
  21. Discard the nuts and the exhaust manifold gasket.
  22. Clean and inspect the LH exhaust manifold, as outlined under the Exhaust Manifold procedure in this section. Remove and discard the 6 LH exhaust manifold studs.
  23. Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
  24. AWD vehicles remove the 2 RH catalytic converter bracket bolts.
  25. Remove the 4 nuts and the RH catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and the gasket.
  26. Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
  27. Remove the 4 bolts and the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly.
  28. Remove the 3 thermostat housing-to-lower intake manifold bolts.
  29. Remove the thermostat housing and discard the gasket and O-ring seal.
  30. Remove the 10 bolts and the lower intake manifold. Discard the gaskets.
  31. Remove the bolt and the LH CMP sensor.
  32. Remove the 2 bolts and the upper LH primary timing chain guide.
  33. Remove the 2 bolts and the LH secondary timing chain tensioner.
    WARNING
    If the components are being reinstalled, they must be installed in the same positions. Mark the components for installation into their original positions.
  34. Remove the valve tappets from the cylinder head.

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Remove the valve tappets from the cylinder head
  35. Remove and discard the M6 bolt.
    WARNING
    Place clean rags over any exposed engine cavities. Also, carefully remove the towels so foreign materials do not drop into the engine.


    WARNING
    The cylinder head bolts must be discarded and new bolts must be installed. They are tighten-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.


    WARNING
    Aluminum surfaces are soft and can be easily scratched. Do NOT place the cylinder head gasket surface, unprotected, on a workbench surface.



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Remove and discard the M6 bolt
  36. Remove and discard the 8 bolts from the cylinder head.
  37. Remove the cylinder head. Discard the cylinder head gasket.
    WARNING
    NEVER use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the head gasket.


    NOTE
    Observe all warnings or cautions and follow all application directions contained on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep.


    NOTE
    If there is no residual gasket material present, metal surface prep can be used to clean and prepare the surfaces.
  38. Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surfaces of both the cylinder heads and the cylinder block.
  39. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
  40. Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
  41. Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
  42. Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any remaining traces of oil or coolant and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
  43. Support the cylinder head on a bench with the head gasket side up.
    NOTE
    The straightedge used must be flat within 0.0051 mm (0.0002 in) per foot of tool length.
  44. Inspect all areas of the deck face with a straightedge and feeler gauge. The cylinder head must not have depressions deeper than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) across a 38.1 mm (1.5 in) square area, or scratches more than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in).
To install:
  1. Install a new gasket, the LH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in 5 steps:
    1. Step 1: Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
    2. Step 2: Tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
    3. Step 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
    4. Step 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
    5. Step 5: Tighten 90 degrees.

      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-left side
  2. Install the M6 bolt and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    WARNING
    The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions.


    NOTE
    Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  3. Install the valve tappets in their original positions.
  4. Install the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the upper LH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Install LH camshaft position (CMP) sensor and the bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  7. Using new gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Lower intake manifold bolt tightening sequence
  8. Using a new gasket and O-ring seal, install the thermostat housing and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    WARNING
    Make sure to use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. Using regular O-rings can cause the fuel system to leak. Never reuse the O-ring seals.


    WARNING
    The upper and lower O-ring seals are not interchangeable.
  9. Install new fuel injector O-ring seals, as follows:
    1. Remove the retaining clips and separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
    2. Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
    3. Install new O-ring seals and lubricate with clean engine oil.
    4. Install the fuel injectors and the retaining clips onto the fuel rail.
  10. Install the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly and install the 4 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  11. Install the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  12. AWD vehicles, install the 2 RH catalytic converter bracket bolts. Tighten the 4 catalytic converter nuts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the 2 catalytic converter brackets to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  13. Using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter and 4 new nuts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  14. Install the LH cylinder block drain plug. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus an additional 180 degrees.
  15. Install 6 new LH exhaust manifold studs. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
    NOTE
    Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop and exhaust leak.
  16. Using a new gasket, install the LH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in the sequence shown.
    1. Stage 1: tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
    2. Stage 2: tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Exhaust manifold tightening sequence-left side
  17. Install the LH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  18. Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and 4 new nuts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  19. Install the 2 LH catalytic converter bracket bolts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  20. Install the generator, the bolt and the nut. Tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
  21. Install the A/C compressor, the nut and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  22. Connect the EOP switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
  23. Attach the wiring harness retainer to the generator.
  24. Connect the generator electrical connector.
  25. Connect the generator B+ cable and install the nut. Tighten to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
  26. Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
  27. Install the wiring harness retainer bolt on the rear of the LH cylinder head. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  28. Connect the LH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector.
  29. Connect the LH HO2S electrical connector.
  30. Connect the LH CMP sensor electrical connector.
  31. Connect the CHT sensor electrical connector.
  32. Connect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors.
  33. If equipped, install the block heater wiring harness onto the engine. Connect the block heater electrical connector and install the heat shield.
  34. Install the LH camshafts, as outlined in this section.
Right Side
Specific to:
Ford Edge 2008-2009
Lincoln MKX 2008-2009

WARNING
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.

  1. Remove the RH camshafts, as outlined in this section.
  2. If equipped, remove the heat shield and disconnect the block heater electrical connector.
  3. Remove the block heater wiring harness from the engine.
  4. Disconnect the RH Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  5. Remove the bolt and position aside the RH radio interference capacitor.
  6. Disconnect the RH Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector.
  7. Remove the bolt and the ground cable from the RH cylinder.
  8. Tag and detach the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors.
  9. Disconnect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector.
  10. Disconnect the LH Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) electrical connector.
  11. Remove the 2 LH catalytic converter bracket bolts.
  12. Remove the 4 nuts and the LH catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and the gasket.
  13. Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
  14. AWD vehicles, remove the 2 RH catalytic converter bracket bolts.
  15. Remove the 4 nuts and the RH catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and the gasket.
  16. Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Allow the coolant to drain from the cylinder block into a suitable container.
  17. Remove the 3 bolts and the RH exhaust manifold heat shield.
  18. Remove the 6 nuts and the RH exhaust manifold. Discard the nuts and exhaust manifold gaskets.
  19. Clean and inspect the RH exhaust manifold. Refer to the Exhaust Manifold procedure in this section.
  20. Remove and discard the 6 RH exhaust manifold studs.
  21. Remove the 2 bolts and the RH primary timing chain guide.
  22. Remove the 2 bolts and the RH secondary timing chain tensioner.
  23. Remove the 2 bolts and the engine lifting eye.
    NOTE
    Matchmark the installed position of the bracket on the cylinder head for installation.



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Remove the 2 bolts and the engine lifting eye
  24. Remove the bolt and the upper intake manifold bracket.

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Matchmark the installed position of the bracket on the cylinder head for installation, then remove the bolt and the upper intake manifold bracket
  25. Remove the bolt and the RH CMP sensor.
  26. Remove the 4 bolts and the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly.
  27. Remove the 3 thermostat housing-to-lower intake manifold bolts. Remove the thermostat housing and discard the gasket and O-ring seal.
  28. Remove the 10 bolts and the lower intake manifold. Discard the gaskets.
  29. Disconnect and remove the CHT sensor jumper harness.
    WARNING
    If the components are being reinstalled, they must be installed in the same positions. Mark the components for installation into their original positions.
  30. Remove the valve tappets from the cylinder head.

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Remove the valve tappets from the cylinder head
  31. Remove and discard the M6 bolt.
    WARNING
    Place clean rags over any exposed engine cavities. Also, carefully remove the towels so foreign materials do not drop into the engine.


    WARNING
    The cylinder head bolts must be discarded and new bolts must be installed. They are tighten-to-yield designed and cannot be reused.


    WARNING
    Aluminum surfaces are soft and can be easily scratched. Do NOT place the cylinder head gasket surface, unprotected, on a workbench surface.



    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Remove and discard the M6 bolt
  32. Remove and discard the 8 bolts from the cylinder head. Remove the cylinder head. Discard the cylinder head gasket.
    WARNING
    NEVER use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the head gasket.


    NOTE
    Observe all warnings or cautions and follow all application directions contained on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep.


    NOTE
    If there is no residual gasket material present, metal surface prep can be used to clean and prepare the surfaces.
  33. Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surfaces of both the cylinder heads and the cylinder block.
  34. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
  35. Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
  36. Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
  37. Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any remaining traces of oil or coolant and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
  38. Support the cylinder head on a bench with the head gasket side up.
    NOTE
    The straightedge used must be flat within 0.0051 mm (0.0002 in) per foot of tool length.
  39. Inspect all areas of the deck face with a straightedge and feeler gauge. The cylinder head must not have depressions deeper than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) across a 38.1 mm (1.5 in) square area, or scratches more than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in).
To install:
  1. Install a new gasket, the RH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in 5 steps:
    1. Step 1: Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
    2. Step 2: Tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
    3. Step 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
    4. Step 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
    5. Step 5: Tighten 90 degrees.

      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-right side
  2. Install the M6 bolt and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    WARNING
    The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions.


    NOTE
    Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  3. Install the valve tappets in their original, installed positions.
  4. Install and connect the CHT sensor jumper harness.
  5. Using new gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Lower intake manifold bolt tightening sequence
  6. Using a new gasket and O-ring seal, install the thermostat housing and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    WARNING
    Only use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. Using regular O-rings can cause the fuel system to leak. Never reuse the O-ring seals.


    WARNING
    The upper and lower O-ring seals are not interchangeable.
  7. Install new fuel injector O-ring seals, as follows:
    1. Remove the retaining clips and separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
    2. Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
    3. Install new O-ring seals and lubricate with clean engine oil.
    4. Install the fuel injectors and the retaining clips onto the fuel rail.
  8. Install the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly and install the 4 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  9. Install the RH CMP sensor and the bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    NOTE
    Align the bracket with the index mark made during removal.
  10. Install the upper intake manifold bracket and the bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    NOTE
    Align the bracket with the index mark made during removal.
  11. Install the upper intake manifold bracket and the bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  12. Install the engine lifting eye and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  13. Install the RH secondary timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  14. Install the RH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  15. Install 6 new RH exhaust manifold studs. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  16. Using a new gasket, install the RH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in the sequence shown.
    1. Stage 1: tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
    2. Stage 2: tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

      Click image to see an enlarged view
      Fig. Exhaust manifold tightening sequence-right side
  17. Install the RH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  18. Install the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    NOTE
    Do not tighten the 4 catalytic converter nuts at this time.
  19. Using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter and 4 new nuts.
  20. AWD vehicles, install the 2 RH catalytic converter bracket bolts. Tighten the 4 catalytic converter nuts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the 2 catalytic converter brackets to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  21. Install the LH cylinder block drain plug. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus an additional 180 degrees.
  22. Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and 4 new nuts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  23. Install the 2 LH catalytic converter bracket bolts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  24. Connect the LH catalyst monitor sensor electrical connector.
  25. Connect the CHT sensor electrical connector.
  26. Connect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors.
  27. Install the ground cable and the bolt. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  28. Connect the RH CMP sensor electrical connector.
  29. Connect the RH HO2S electrical connector.
  30. If equipped, install the block heater wiring harness onto the engine. Connect the block heater electrical connector and install the heat shield.
  31. Install the RH camshafts, as outlined in this section.

These details will help.
Thanks.

FOR MORE HELP GO TO: ---

Car repair guide?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/car-repair-guide.html



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